![Natural Ingredients in Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/54380a1/2147483647/strip/true/crop/3000x2000+0+125/resize/300x200!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F02%2F4e%2F699245954b71a7e32aef3dd1be8d%2Fajrak-steps-lead.jpg) # 12 things that make Ajrakh unique *From its centuries old origins to the special process of its creation- find out what makes Ajrakh truly unique.* 1. This intricate and exclusively handcrafted block-printing technique came to Kutch from Sindh some 400 years ago at the behest of the King of Kutch, who invited craftsmen from Khatri community to come and practice their art on the banks of Dhamadka river. A large part of the credit of this art's revival goes to Dr. Ismail Mohamed Khatri, who has been acclaimed internationally as a master craftsman of the traditional Ajrakh, a craft that can be traced back up to ten generations in his family. His son, 40-year old Sufiyan Khatri, continues the legacy and is known for crafting the amazing two-sided printed Ajrakh, using an ancient technique that has remained unchanged over the last millennium. ![Alia Bhatt wearing an Ajrakh saree](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/2cbcdc3/2147483647/strip/true/crop/1080x720+100+0/resize/300x200!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F79%2Fb7%2F208d39b7492aa3c7b885258abb04%2Fakrakh-lead-alia.png) - [Here’s why Ajrakh—a 4,000-year-old Indian textile—has become an internet sensation](https://www.aboutamazon.in/news/small-business/ajrakh-print-saree-kurti-and-shawls) [## Shop online for Ajrakh stoles](https://www.amazon.in/s?rh=n%3A1571271031%2Cp_4%3AAjrakh+By+Dr+Ismail+Mohmed+Khatri&ref=DAYONE_IN_AJ-SE2020) ![Dr. Ismail Mohamed Khatri a Master Artisan in Ajrakh Priniting](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/4ae84a7/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1315+0+0/resize/767x439!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2Fb9%2F0a%2Fd357cb124634a574b0d124590d4b%2Fbt6a2193.jpg) *Dr. Ismail Mohamed Khatri, master artisan, Ajrakh* 2. The popular story among local practitioners is that *Ajrakh* means “keep it today.” The cloth is made in a sixteen step process of washing, dyeing, printing, and drying, with one step being performed in one day and the fabric being put to rest for the day. ![Drying Ajrakh Prints](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/db5fcdd/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F43%2F83%2Ff126e9944a29b972ff041e2741b8%2Faj-dry-2.jpg) *Drying is one of the 16 steps that go in creating the Ajrakh prints* 3. The ingredients for Ajrakh are all derived from nature, be it herbs and vegetable essence or natural minerals. Some of the common ingredients are wild indigo, pomegranate bark and seeds, and *harde*. Camel dung, found abundantly in the region, is used as an ingredient to remove starch from the fabric. ![Eco friendly ingredients used in dyes to make Ajrakh Prints](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/cbccdf9/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F7d%2F35%2Fbe7fce6e496b99a0c13fb002a503%2Fbt6a2146.jpg) *Eco friendly ingredients which are used for dyes* 4. It is hard to believe that the artisans use rusted iron to create dye! Scrap iron, jaggery and tamarind is soaked in water for two weeks and then cooked over flame to create the black dye for Ajrakh. ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/002b115/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1235+0+0/resize/767x412!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F85%2Fcc%2F5b0584834c7c9ff9b92a124ba2a7%2Fbt6a2087.jpg) *A worker using the black dye to print on a fabric* 5. The natural dyes used in Ajrakh printing lends a unique characteristic to the fabric. During summers, it expands the pores of the fabric, making it easy for air to pass through. During winters, the pores of the fabric close, providing warmth. No wonder, they say that Ajrakh is suitable to wear around the year. ![Colorful Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/8749efc/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F78%2F18%2Fc19e8c2046ad82cb5d43bb7de3ab%2Faj4.jpg) *Fabric for all seasons* 6. Historically, Ajrakh has been printed on both sides. This is because the cattle herders, who used to wear Ajrakh traditionally, would leave their homes even before sun rise and there was no electricity in those times so they couldn’t differentiate the right side from the wrong side in darkness. Double-side printing ensured that they could wear it either ways. ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/cd44d29/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x2266+0+0/resize/767x756!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2Ffc%2Fb7%2F4de503a54c5996bb1e86a8d9058c%2Fbt6a2060.jpg) *Scrap iron is processed to create the black dye for Ajrakh. This is printed all over the fabric.* 7. Ajrakh is colourful and bright for a reason. It was not just cattle that could get lost in the white desert. It was not uncommon for cattle herders to lose their sense of direction in the endless sands of desert. Bright colours made it easier for others to locate them even at a distance. ![Colorful Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/1a1c99f/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F0a%2F61%2Fe4d785aa474da3dd219c9af2e8f1%2Faj5.jpg) *Colour with a purpose* 8. Water plays an essential role in the process of dying and the quality of water is as important as the quantity. If the water is high in minerals, the colour and concentration of the dyes is affected. ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/dd458db/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1226+0+0/resize/767x409!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F2a%2F45%2F903a83004b9791125d1d4ba29c14%2Fajp.jpg) *Water is the key to unique Ajrakh prints* 9. The wooden blocks used in Ajrakh printing are traditionally being carved by experts. Now, many artisans have mastered the art of chiseling teak wood blocks themselves in complex geometrical and intricate floral patterns. ![Design blocks for Ajrakh ](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/423c3d8/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1429+0+0/resize/767x477!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F1b%2F30%2Fe86a65ea4a869f1d1a95dd126b48%2Ftools.jpg) *Building blocks for design* 10. It is said that all the beautiful things found in the world inspired the artists to come up with ideas for the Ajrakh blocks. It’s not uncommon to find designs of clouds, rain drops, stars and moon. ![Beautiful prints of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/35e83ac/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2Ffc%2F70%2F43a0d7fa49baa59b0f8a0698be28%2Fbright.jpg) 11. While traditionally Ajrakh was worn only by men from the pastoral community of the Kutch, today it has become a fashion statement for the affluent buyers, both men and women, looking for organic, ethical fashion. ![Modern day Ajrakh prints](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/fd368af/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F45%2Fa3%2Ffa365dbc4af8af36f3ab685e9b50%2Fmodern.jpg) *Leading with the organic fashion trend* 12. **The 16-step process** required to create a piece of Ajrakh fabric is what makes the outcome so beautiful and intricate. ![Wash the fabric](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/e6905b3/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1449+0+0/resize/767x483!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2Fe7%2F4a%2F1cd92eaf4e02849a11a3c06e07b9%2Fwash.jpg) **Step 1: Saaj or Washing:** The fabric is soaked in castor oil, soda ash and camel dung overnight and washed in water to remove starch. ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/1ff3020/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1711+0+0/resize/767x571!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F42%2F80%2Fec6f4c144de6986acdd20af31a8d%2Faj-color.jpg) **Step 2: Harde Dyeing:** The fabric is dyed in a solution of *harde* nut. This prepares the fabric for dyeing. ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/db5fcdd/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F43%2F83%2Ff126e9944a29b972ff041e2741b8%2Faj-dry-2.jpg) **Step 3: Sun Drying:** After dyeing in *harde*, the fabric is left to dry in the sun. Exposure to sunlight makes the colour deeper. ![Printing the fabric](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/977d8e7/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F52%2F37%2F825fcc164cf3a75b70dbeefeb989%2Fdye.jpg) **Step 4: Resist Print:** Resist adheres to the fabric and prevents the dye from colouring the part that has been printed with resist. ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/cd44d29/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x2266+0+0/resize/767x756!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2Ffc%2Fb7%2F4de503a54c5996bb1e86a8d9058c%2Fbt6a2060.jpg) Scrap iron is processed to create the black dye for Ajrakh. This is printed all over the fabric. ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/12886f3/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1402+0+0/resize/767x468!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F65%2F5b%2F67cf9f52467c9b3265061557f795%2Fbt6a2024.jpg) **Step 5: Alum Resist:** This process results in large areas filled with red and resist. ![Step by step process](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/6270bb1/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F8e%2F59%2Fe6c620a64d7c96c5e007b43aa05a%2Fph4.jpg) **Step 6: Indigo Dyeing:** This creates the trademark blue colour ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/ea49c0f/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1226+0+0/resize/767x409!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F6b%2Fd0%2Febe1df0a477dab5b417aefc802e1%2Fbt6a1767.jpg) **Step 8: Repeat the washing:** This is done to remove resist and unfixed colour. ![Step by step process](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/95e2861/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F8c%2Fd7%2Fe78e61bd4638896b255fb3659af3%2Fph1.jpg) **Step 9:** **Colour dyeing in boiling water:** After washing, the fabric is then color dyed in boiling water. ![Step by step process](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/a1fe08a/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1661+0+0/resize/767x554!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2Fad%2Fe5%2Fe9b19ebb47d4ae2f99391be3eb28%2Fph3.jpg) **Step 10: Dry it out:** Once boiled, the fabric is washed and then kept in the sun to dry. ![Ajrakh Art sees a revival](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/ad8ac36/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1450+0+0/resize/767x484!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F4c%2F03%2F0a4711834b3bacec5a8070ceca3b%2Fajrakh.jpg) **Step 11:** The next step of the printing process is called Minakari which is another style of printing ![16 steps Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/484b33a/2147483647/strip/true/crop/1779x2300+0+0/resize/767x992!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2Fb0%2Ffa%2F496357c149b4b28be159f2174ffe%2Fwash1.jpg) **Step 12:** As is with Ajrakh, after each process the fabric has to be dried and washed and so it is after the Minakari work. ![Step by step process](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/cf673fd/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2Fe1%2F9c%2Fd27c3db34e508227e03122089ad7%2Fph2.jpg) **Step 13: Second colour dyeing:** Depending on which colour is preferred, the fabric is now dipped into a second colour dye - such as orange. ![Step by step process](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/38389cc/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F28%2F12%2Ff739bfba473d80c6c80023d95d35%2Fph6.jpg) Step 14: Often a liquid colour spray with help of dried turmeric is used on the fabric. ![Making of Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/c344f4a/2147483647/strip/true/crop/2300x1533+0+0/resize/767x511!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F8b%2Fe0%2F36b05abe4973b896633dd4a31fce%2Faj-boil.jpg) **Step 15:** After the fabric is dyed a second time, it is then treated with alum solution (not in pic). ![The final fabric Ajrakh](https://assets.aboutamazon.com/dims4/default/20b3ffc/2147483647/strip/true/crop/3264x4352+0+0/resize/767x1023!/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fassets.aboutamazon.com%2F08%2F85%2F42779508440e893e65ce5f2eb89e%2Fbhumika.jpg) **Step 16:** Final wash of the fabric is done in plain water and then left for drying. This then results in the finished products [Shop on the Handloom and Handicrafts page](https://www.amazon.in/b/ref=surl_handloom?node=11971792031)